Your pool is designed to hold the same water for many years. You filter and chemically
treat it over and over again. You can easily prevent your water from going out of balance
by testing your water frequently.

PH measures the acidity or alkalinity of pool water. The proper PH range is 7.2 – 7.8. A
low reading will lead to corrosion of metal parts such as heaters and ladders, wrinkled
vinyl liners and swimmer discomfort. A high reading will lead to cloudy water and
scaling on pool surfaces and swimmer discomfort.

Total Alkalinity measures the level of certain minerals that help control the PH of your
water. The proper range should be between 100 – 150 ppm.
What To Do

When using your test kit, water samples should be taken from far below the surface and
away from the pool return.

Above ground pools are not designed for diving. Avoid serious injury.
DO NOT JUMP OR DIVE!

Backwashing your filter:
Backwashing is removing the dirt that collects on the inside of your filter which
restricts water flow. Once your pressure gauge is 10 to 15 psi higher than normal
operating pressure, it is time to backwash your filter. See your filter manual to
check the normal operating pressure and the proper way to backwash. Sand filters
must be backwashed prior to running the filter for the first time.
Vacuuming:
While vacuuming your pool it is imperative that you move the vacuum slowly along
the bottom of the pool and do not rush. If the vacuum gets stuck on the bottom of
the pool, do not push or tug on it. This could put holes in your liner. Lift the
vacuum straight up until it is free. Be extremely careful when vacuuming the inside
perimeter of the pool. It is very easy to put slits in the liner from banging the
vacuum head into the sides of the pool. Never try to vacuum twigs or heavy debris.
These should be scooped out with a net.
Pool Base:
Footprints, crevices and depressions will visible under the liner. At least one month
of use is needed for settling, sometimes an entire season. The bottom will never be
perfectly flat with a pool base bottom.
Ladders:
Since there is constant use of your in-pool ladder, we strongly recommend that you
wrap a towel or place a rubber mat under the bottom step of the ladder to protect
the pool liner. Unnecessary holes may develop if this precaution is not taken.
Liner Leaks:
Throughout the ownership of your pool, you may develop holes in the liner. To
rectify, cut a piece of vinyl into a round patch 3 times the size of the hole. Adhere
the patch over the hole with vinyl cement. This can be done underwater. If you
locate on the seam of the liner, call our office for further instructions. To find a leak
check the outside perimeter of the pool for wet spots. Look for muddy, not just
damp spots. Damp spots are usually caused by condensation. Once you find a
muddy spot check the inside of the pool in that area. Take a diver’s mask and float
it on top of the water. This will magnify the bottom and walls of your pool. Next,
take you hand skimmer and move it along the bottom of the pool. Every little piece
of debris is a potential hole. The movement of the water by the net will disturb
debris, however, if it a hole, it will not move.Seasonal Pool Care:
We strongly recommend you have your pool winterized and summarized by a
professional such as Long Island Swim-Pool Service. We offer this service at
attractive rates to our customers. Please note that pools with heaters and/or
underground water lines must have their lines blown out under pressure prior to
closing the pool, otherwise freezing temperatures could cause cracked pipes
resulting in major repairs.

Eclipse 3 is available from our Pool Service Crews.
• The mineral-based natural way to combat algae and bacteria growth.
• Eliminates tedious pool maintenance.
• Use less chlorine and still have crystal clear water.
• Stabilizers pH.
• Save as much as 50% on pool chemical costs.
• Lessens chemical odors, irritation of eyes and eyes or bleaching of hair.
• Safe for pool liners and no effect on filtration system parts
• ———————————————-
• Shock and treat water with chlorine.
• Balance water alkalinity between 80-150 ppm.
• Maintain pH between 7.2 and 7.8.
•
• Add 2 oz of ECLIPSE 3 per 1000 gallons of water.
• After treatment run filter continuously for 48 hours, backwash as needed.
• Any sediment collected by ECLIPSE 3 may be vacuumed out.
• ———————————————-
• Add 1/8 oz. of ECLIPSE 3 per 1000 gallons of water weekly.
• Always run filter for 8 hours after adding ECLIPSE 3.
• Maintain proper chlorine level.

Generic Pool Water Maintenance Tips
BALANCING THE TOTAL ALKALINITY (TA)
A. Total Alkalinity is a measure of the total levels of carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides and other
alkaline substances in the water. TA is referred to as the water’s ‘pH buffer’. In other words, it’s a
measure of the ability of the water to resist changes in ph level.
B. The recommended Total Alkalinity (TA) for your pool water is 80 – 120 ppm.
C. If the TA is too low, the ph level will fluctuate widely from high to low. Fluctuations in pH can
cause corrosion or scaling. Low TA can be corrected by Alkalinity UP (sodium hydrogen
carbonate).
D. If the TA is too high, the pH level will tend to be high and may be difficult to bring down. High TA
can be corrected by adding Alkalinity Down (sodium bisulfate).
E. Once the TA is balanced, it normally remains stable, although the addition of more water with a high or
low alkalinity will raise or loser the TA reading of the water.
F. When the Total Alkalinity is within the recommended range, proceed to the next step.
BALANCING THE pH
A. The ideal pH level for you pool water is 7.2 – 7.6
B. The pH level is the measure of acidity and alkalinity. Values below 7 are acidic and those above 7
are alkaline. Maintaining the proper pH level is extremely important for:
• Optimizing the effectiveness of the sanitizer.
• Maintaining water that is comfortable for the user.
• Preventing equipment deterioration.
C. If the pH level is too low, the following may result:
• The sanitizer will dissipate rapidly.
• The water may become irritating to pool users.
• The pool’s equipment may corrode.
If the pH is too low, it can be increased by adding pH INCREASE to the pool water.
D. If the pH level is too high, the following may result:
• The sanitizer is less effective.
• The water may become cloudy
• Scaling may form on the pool surface and equipment.
If the pH is too high, it can decreased by adding pH MINUS to the pool water.
After adding pH Increase / Alkalinity Up or pH Minus / Alkalinity Down, wait two hours before retesting
for pH. Measurements taken too soon may not be accurate.
When the pH is within the recommended range, please refer to the next step.
MAINTAINING THE SANITIZER LEVEL
A. Sanitizer is extremely important for killing algae, bacteria and viruses, and preventing unwanted
organisms from growing in the pool. At the same time, you don’t want sanitizer levels too high because
that can cause irritation of your skin and eyes.
B. Always maintain the sanitizer level in your pool at the recommended level for each type of sanitizer.

Pool Perfect Water
7 simple steps to start and 5 for the rest of the summer
“An ounce of Prevention is worth a pound of Cure” – Ben Franklin

OPENING YOUR POOL
Before you start:
Always start with New Test Kit reagents in order to accurately test your water. Be sure your kit tests for alkalinity, pH and (if using chlorine) Free Chlorine or Bromine. Read the labels for dosage application and warning before using any pool chemical.

FOR CHLORINATED POOLS
Test and adjust alkalinity to reduce pH drift.
Add Total Alkalinity if it’s lower than 100 ppm.
Add pH- if it’s higher than 150 ppm.
Test and adjust pH
Add pH+ if it’s lower than 7.2
Add pH- if it’s higher than 7.8
Oxidize with Shock.
Add a broad spectrum algaecide.
Add chlorine extenders.
Chlorine Stabilizer (if it is supplied with your pool kit)
For newly filled pools only stabilized (cyan uric acid).*
Wait for the Free Chlorine level to drop to between 1 & 3 parts per million before swimming.
Add daily recommended dose of chlorine.

What is it and where should it be?
Calcium is the greatest influence on the total hardness context of your swimming pool. Other minerals such as magnesium, iron, manganese, and a few others don’t impact the total hardness enough for us to bother with so we stick with adjusting the calcium hardness. The recommended and best range is between 250 and 350 ppm for your calcium hardness.

Problems associated with low calcium hardness
If the calcium hardness is to low, it can cause problems similar to low total alkalinity in hat it becomes corrosive and try to rob minerals from your pool walls and equipment, particularly the metal. This reaction can cause staining as well.

Problems associated with high calcium hardness
If the calcium hardness is too high, it will cause a scale build up on all of the pool surfaces, cloudy water, irritated eyes, and can reduce the efficiency of your filter. This is also what causes the white ring around the top of your swimming pool.

Treating low calcium hardness
Luckily, low calcium hardness can be easily corrected by adding calcium chloride that can be purchased at any swimming pool store. Divide the recommended amount up into three treatments allowing the water to circulate for at least four hours in between.

Treating high calcium hardness
Reducing high calcium hardness is very difficult. The easiest way to do this, although it doesn’t always work, is to replace some of the water with fresh water. If that does not work consult a pool professional, as they will have to add a chemical to keep the calcium solution that prevents it from depositing.

In conclusion
The calcium hardness does not influence the balance of any other chemicals in your swimming pool and takes quite a while to cause any damage so it should be one of the last things you worry about adjusting unless you are having consistent issues with cloudy water.

Round: Diameter x Diameter x Avg. Depth x 5.9

Oval: Max Length x Max. Width x Avg. Depth x 5.9

Free Form: Surface Sq. Ft x Avg. Depth x 7.5

Rectangular: Length x Width x Avg. Depth x 7.5

Air pillows or so called ‘ice compensators are sold / installed by Long Island Swim-Pool Service without warranty, as they commonly lose air and are without real function.
Using an air pillow to make the cover tight (to allow rain water to roll off) can damage the cover and will void the cover warranty.

Leaves and water should be removed periodically from the cover to ensure clear water in the spring when the cover is removed. Leaves left on the cover will decay and promote spontaneous growth of algae and spawning of mosquitoes and other insects. And that means GREEN WATER when your pool is opened in the spring!

Pool covers tend to degrade with time and exposure to ultra-violet rays and pool chemicals. This is unfortunate but unavoidable. The condition of your pool water in the spring time will also be partially determined by the relative age and condition of your cover.

What to do after the winter cover is installed.
1. It is necessary to drain excess water from the top of your pool cover
periodically in order to prevent the cover from slipping into the pool (except
for Loop-Loc mesh covers). Leaves must also be removed. Failure to
remove leaves could result in algae growth and / or staining of your pool
liner.
2. Many ice compensators lose air after the pool is winterized. That is okay. In
reality, they are without purpose. (There are no warranties on ice
compensators.)

For owners of solid polypropylene pool covers
Water relief is built into this cover by stitching panels together, thereby creating many tiny water vents. As water accumulates on the cover, the material, which is lighter than water, rises slowly to the surface. Therefore, when the cover is dry and first installed on the pool, it is quite common for a few inches of water to seep through these “water vents.” This process is normal and will soon equalize, resulting in a cover that requires much less pumping or siphoning than other covers.

Now that the ice and snow are finally going to melt, it is absolutely necessary to drain the water from the top of the cover and to raise the water level in your pool. You may use the discharge hose that you use to drain your cover and put the other end under the cover so you fill the pool at the same time you drain the top of the cover.